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Shipton Spire Expedition 5900m | Expeditions in Pakistan

     shiption spire peak
     
     
    shiption peak climb

The Karakorum Range might as well have a moat around it. A kingdom of the greatest concentration of high mountains on Earth, it holds such fearsome 8,000-meter peaks as K2, Gasherbrum I and II, and Broad Peak. And not only is the range remote and difficult to access, it sits on top of a hotbed of volatile borders between Tajikistan, China, Pakistan, Afghanistan, and India, effectively sealing the mountains from the bulk of mountaineers—and leaving many faces unclimbed.

The unclimbed north face of Shipton Spire (5885m) in the Uli Biaho Group of Pakistan`s Karakoram. The big pillar on the left, ending at an obvious pointed top with a notch beyond, is the northeast pillar forming the far right side of the southeast face. The front face of the pillar is taken by the Slovak route, Prisoners of the Shipton (5.11d A3, 900m to the notch, Koller-Linek-Podrabradsky, 2005). Koller and Linek followed Ship of Fools to within 80 meters of the summit at WI 5+. The new Spanish route (A4+, 870m of climbing, Vidal, 2007) climbs close to the right edge of the pillar to reach the notch. In 2005 Gabo Cmarik and Dodo Kopold hoped to climb into the large hanging couloir on the north face from the rock rib on the right. Unfortunately, they were forced to retreat before reaching it, when Cmarik became ill with sunstroke Dodo Kopold -

 

Itinerary : 37 Days

Day 01 : Arrive Islamabad, Welcome reception. 
Day 02   : Drive to Chilas
Day 03   : Drive to Skardu
Day 04  : Final arrangements of the Expedition.
Day 05 : Drive to Askole ,the Great Mountains
Day 06 : Askole to jhola, Full day trek to jhola
Day 07 : Jhola to Paiyu
Day 08 : Paiyu to Shipton Spire Base Camp
Day 09-30 : Shipton Spire -- Climbing Activities 
Day 31 : Trek back to Shipton Spire BC
Day 32 : Trek back to Paiyu
Day 33 : Trek to  to  Jhola
Day 34 : Back to Askole
Day 35 : Free day at Skardu
Day 36 : Drive to Chilas.
Day 37 : Drive to Islamabad